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1. Bombardier Traxter Xl For Sale
2. 2001 Bombardier Traxter Manual

01' Traxter XT 500 with the Electric Manual Shift. Stuck in first gear and will not upshift, tried shifting manually using the provided emergency shifting tool but it will not budge. Shifter Solenoid appears to be functioning as you can hear it engage and the RPM's also reduce. On a sidenote, had it in the shop for a new starter and they returned it to me with this new problem along with a denial they created/caused it, what the. Any ideas what the problem/solution could be?? Thank you, Appreciate any advice you could provide!!

When you press the electric shift button (while running) you can hear the solenoid attempting to shift however it does not shift. To manually shift you use a special tool in the kit that connects to the spline, have attempted to manually shift with the unit not running in Neutral-Reverse-High & Low, all to no avail. Also did the same with unit on jack stands while someone rocked the drivetrain back and forth, again no luck. Concerned at this point that perhaps when replacing the starter something (washer or whatever) was dropped into the case and made it's way to the gears which is why it won't shift, although that is just a guess?? Hello all, I have had an issue with my Traxters shifting and was unable to find a desperately needed bit of intel to fix it until recently. With that in mind, I figured I would add to a few sites a bit of info I picked up about my Traxters shifting issues Note: this may not be the case with all Traxters shifting problems but if you have recently replaced the sprag gear/clutch (part 41/42) in the ignition assembly this MAY be your issue. My Traxter had a sprag go on it so when the electronic start was used it sounded as it something was grinding in the engine.

After a bit of research it turned up the sprag issue. For fixing it most all of the info needed can be found here: Once this repair was complete my starter worked perfectly, however, during the test drive to make sure I had put everything was back together correctly, I found that I was now unable to shift from first. So more research ensued What I found was out of a multitude of sites with no answers, I found two guys (A huge thanks to Henn and Aaron) who had mentioned that when the ignition housing is put back on, care must be taken to make sure of the shift pistons position. (part #23 in the diagram here: ) This piston slides side to side on the motor shifting gears.

When reassembling the ignition cover it is possible to put the housing back on but have this piston slightly off. To check if this is your problem (BEFORE GOING THROUGH THE HASSLE OF REMOVING ANYTHING BIG): - take of the small cover (part #25 in the above diagram) on the right side of the engine - be advised - a small amount of oil will puke out. The diagram shows only the far left side of the piston with the hydraulic relief hole at the top/ 12 oclock position but on the right hand side the hole is actually at the bottom/6 oclock position. If your pistons relief hole is not right at the bottom/6 oclock position (mine was at about 5 oclock) this would likely be your problem. To correct this (I am assuming you have already taken your rear racks on plastics off): - drain your coolant, drain your oil and remove your air box ONLY.

Full removal of the rad, fan, airbox, carb, rear axle, rear swing arm IS NOT NEEDED. It is for the full sprag repair, but NOT for repositioning the shift piston. With ONLY the air box removed you should be able to get at most of the ignition cover bolts - some will be a bloody tight reach but it is possible minus two that are on the bottom left side under the end of the swing arm. Loosen these off to about 1/4' out. This will loosen the cover enough to take the pressure off of the piston (don't pull on the cover - with two bolts still in it would likely damage the cover).

Pull off the shift piston cover (part #25) and use the relief hole and the tip of a nail or screw driver to rotate the piston to the appropriate bottom/6 oclock position. When doing mine I had to lightly tap the nail with a hammer - again careful to not damage anything. Once it turns, re-place the ignition cover, check the piston position once more then replace the small piston cover, tighten all bolts, and replace the air box and wheels.fire up your machine and give it a go. Hope this helps someone as much as it helped me! Edited by m3mhunter, 16 January 2013 - 03:27 PM. Wow, Thanks M3M!!! I will run through that ASAP and see if that works.

Air fare construction manual. Since my last post, pulled the motor and had a Local ATV specialist look it over, he cracked the case open and said the gears were simply bound (IIRC) did what he had to do and said she was good to go. Put motor back in and everything back together, fired up and no shifting.ughh. Pretty much resided myself to the fact I had a 1 speed snow plow and that was it.

Really hope this solves my issue, we will see. BTW, have a complete Bombardier service manual in PDF for the 01' Traxters, anybody need a copy post up your email here and I will send one your way. I had the same issue when I rebuilt my engine.

The piston has to be on there just right other wise the shift fork won't budge and change gears. Spent a day narrowing this down. The solenoids sit there and hum but can't actually do anything. On top of that the shifting tool wouldn't budge.

Had a beer and thought about it a while. Went back and changed the rotation of the piston and t shifted again. It can go side to side but also 360 degrees rotation. Make sure it's square. When you see it you will know what I mean. With key on and engine off and seat removed stick your head down by the solenoids at the rear of the engine.

Hit shift up or down button. You should hear it buzz/squeal a little. If your tool doesn't do it I'd almost put money that the piston has rotated.

Thinking back, yep this was it. It took me about 3 tries to get it. The solenoids push the dog bone shifter from either side, one way for up, one way for down, done remember which.

What I did was to bolt it up with about 4 of those 8mm bolts and try the shifting tool before complete reassembly. That engine is awesome but most brp techs have no clue about it.nothing like the new stuff.

I did it with the motor in, but its not quite that simple. I had the rear axle, floorboards, plastic and rack off from engine removal. The only way I could get the engine out was to remove the rear axle, slide the engine back, rotate the engine 90 degrees, drop front propeller shaft, slide forward and come up.engine crane is a must for that job. The service manual tells you how to retorque both sides of the swingarm.

You don't have to do it the way i did, but I had much more room as I had it hanging from the ceiling. Drain coolant, drain oil. Remove air box. The coolant line at the water pump will be a little harder to get to with the axle there, but you can do it. Be careful with the harness where it plugs into the stator, the square plug, 4 wires I think.

The plug likes to come through the case instead of unhooking, you need this to stay as it will create an oil leak if not seated properly. You can fix it if it does come through, just be aware. Also be careful unhooking the switch that tells it what gear its in, right side of machine, back of engine, towards the top, rounded kind of. Be VERY careful with removing the rear case cover. Do your absolute best to not destroy the gasket.

A gasket set for that engine cost me more than a rebuilt crank.I used a gasket glue, I'll find part number from napa, it sealed it back up no problem, I bought one gasket set, that was enough. I'll help you any way I can, we traxter owners have to stick together. This is the piston you need to rotate, this is what it looks like from the inside. If this is installed incorrectly in won't shift, for mechanical reasons, not including the computer problems that could exist. I still think this is your problem, but could be wrong. You can see the cut out where the dog bone sits. I pulled the cover off and had it on the bench to adjust.

So far as shifting goes.it depends on how far you tore it down, let me explain. With my engine on the bench, I had to spin the output shafts with a wrench when I tried to go on beyond 2nd gear. If you can already shift you may have already gotten it, or with the cover loosened you have allowed enough slop to shift. Either answer indicating its still the piston causing the problem. Mine would not shift with the tool beyond 2nd gear without spinning the engine over back and forth.

Then I was able to run it up to 5 in every range, including reverse. If you have it in the air, have a helper spin the tires, front or rear untill they stop and go the other direction untill they stop while you try and run the shifting tool. It should drop on into the next gear.

Bombardier Traxter Xl For Sale

You may have to set the ignition cover on your bench and do an inspection should m3mhunters suggestion not work, but hes pretty accurate.

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2001 Bombardier Traxter Manual

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